Visit:
Walk down Avenida Amsterdam in Condesa, a pedestrian boulevard that takes you down through majority of the neighborhood. It is sprawling with greenery, centuries old architecture that has been beautifully preserved and in many cases converted to cafes, restaurants or small shops. It feels a lot like New York City only quieter, greener and less congested.
Museo Nacional de Antropología – Located within Chapultepec Park, just a 10 minute ride from Condesa. I did not buy tickets in advance and was able to easily purchase within the museum for immediate entrance. Tickets were about $5USD. You’ll be greeted by a striking waterfall fountain El Paraguas (an umbrella) that symbolized the importance of water and connection to the natural world in Mayan culture. Stand underneath the canopy with water falling all around to feel the enormity of the structure and to see the meticulous carvings on the column up close. Then there is the rest of the museum to explore with indoor/outdoor exhibits portraying the country’s rich history.
Casa Estudio Luis Barragán – This is a true architectural gem. A former residence of Mexico’s one of the most influential architects that he designed, curated and lived in until his death. It has been converted into a museum with his personal items still there including the original furniture, his art and book collections. You’ll see a Picasso casually hanging in his library, a Diego Rivera in the living room, Jose Clemente Orozco above his drafting table. The flow of the rooms, impeccable structural details, the placement of windows with the light hitting just the right room at the right time of day. There is an aura, a mood for every room with calm soft whites and wood for tranquility and focus in the bedroom and library, lots of light and greenery in the relaxing rooms and playful pops of deep bright colors leading up the terrace. At least that was my take.
Due to a fairly high demand and limited availability, tickets are released only two weeks before the visit date and are often sold out quickly ($650.00MX / $35USD). Since we did not have much flexibility with only one day carved out for the visit, I was not able to get tickets online but were lucky enough to buy them in person for a later time slot which gave us an opportunity to explore a new neighborhood. Don’t miss the gardens across the street.
For those seeking a bit of adrenaline on their adventure, book a hot air balloon ride over the Teotihuacan pyramids. There are plenty of businesses offering this but after much research and a recommendation from a friend I booked through Volare since safety was at the very forefront of their advertisement. Not going to lie, my husband and I were still hesitant – risk threshold has reduced to almost nothing after having kids, but we made a pact that we can back out until the last second if it feels too much for either one of us. It was incredible!!! Pick up is early – 4:30am – so plan for a more low key night before. Ride to Teotihuacan was a bit over an hour with prep and safety videos upon arrival. Then everyone gets assigned to a basket and we’re off.
It’s very quiet (except for the occasional bursts of flames that keep the air ballon afloat) sun is rising, the sky balmy yellow and orange dotted with other colorful hot air balloons. You’re floating over ancient pyramids saturated with so much history, life, death, mysticism and genius. The feeling was surreal, almost a pause in time.
Take off and landing was seamless, coordination and transfers very organized and the experience itself, unforgettable. Bonus: you’re back by lunch time to (nap) and continue exploring.
Eat/Drink:
Rosetta: A colonial mansion converted into a beautiful Michelin start restaurant in Roma Norte. Start with a cocktail upstairs in the impeccably designed bar with French colonial floor to ceiling windows overlooking the tree lined street.
Merotoro: constantly changing menu based on seasonal ingredient. Great atmosphere and desert was subperb.
Don’t miss getting some churros from street vendors.